Hedi Slimane's catwalk shows for Saint Laurent begin – begin properly, which may be, after a diverting extended prelude through models and rock stars terme conseillé champagne and snuggle up on this particular overcrowded front row, sideboob to allow them to leather jacket – with some task of structural engineering.
(It was Saint Laurent, not Yves Saint Laurent, also; the striking out of the personal, presented name of the founder is one of the vast ways Slimane has asserted control of a house founded seven years till he was born. )
Sometimes you are able to rotating lighting rigs, or a meta-catwalk constructed before the audience's eyes during metallic troughs. At Paris develop week on Monday evening, this particular silver scaffolding which arched by runway began to spin as the fantastic lights came up, showering the community centre with starbursts of disco-ball light bulb.
When Slimane was first at Heureux Laurent the relevance of this executive trickery seemed a little mystifying, since the clothes are entirely without sophiisticatedness. (Scandalously so , some would report. ) Saint Laurent, in its leading-edge incarnation, does straight up rock'n'roll sex-appeal.
Slimane's Saint Laurent has sorted critics, but it has been a commercial aspire to from the start, and the figures keep ever expanding.
But as Slimane continues to make recovery which thumb their nose together with the pretensions of French fashion on the other hand which fly from shop floor coverings all over the world, it seems that Slimane has a point out make after all: he is altering the ability base of the industry. He has turned out that neither reverence nor a blueprint matter at the cash'n'wrap.
His Heureux Laurent has divided critics, but it surely has been a commercial hit from the start, along with figures keep rising: in the brand new sales figures available, for the first quarter of this year, Saint Laurent revenue rose 29%. (To contextualise: stable-mate label Gucci suffered a fall of two. 4%. )
Not that this Heureux Laurent betrays the label founded through the process of Yves. On the contrary, there is something almost uncanny in how the mise en sight of Saint Laurent, circa 2014, channels the spirit of a bohemian, Left Bank Paris of the 1960s, when ysl iPhone 5 was the name to lower.
Slimane's collections thumb their cheeks at the pretensions of French develop but fly from shop floor coverings.
At most contemporary fashion shows the group file in, scan the lines for their name, tuck themselves back into position and are glued to their apple iphones until (and during) the provide begins. At Saint Laurent, top rowers wander in, hit the line, mill about chatting and flirting then flop drunkenly on identify lap looks the most appealing together with the point the music starts.
The girls need long fringes and long thighs and leg and the boys have packs of any nicotine products jammed in the back of their black tejanos.
This season, the show invitation was obviously a booklet of the work of Robert Heinecken, the 'paraphotographer' who produced his art out of media spectacle, often explicit and disturbing. The issue of Heinecken's work is hard to bear, questioning – is it porn, potentially comment on porn? – and since Slimane is a respected photographer himself, distinct must assume he has used Heinecken's imagery to bring the same lens to allow them to his clothes.
For the look can be frequently, at first glance, trashy. A chevron-striped lazo and black leather miniskirt a sheer chiffon blouse, worn featuring sheer black tights (a Slimane motif) and Terry de Havilland-esque platform sandals, for instance.
If latest season's Saint Laurent girl was regarded as an innocent sixties dolly pet, hoping to get backstage for this initially, this season was her a year later a couple of tours under her seatbelt. There was a flimsy red costume with white polka dots, attached with a leather jacket that doesn't highly go, as if she has borrowed for this back of someone's chair in the kaffestue while the wearer went outside to enjoy a cigarette. Is it high fashion? Or perhaps not. But for the consumer, Slimane can really make the earth move.
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